Essentials for Your Family Summer Road Trip

In just a few short weeks the kids and I will be packing up and starting our road trip South – an eighteen-hour drive to our destination. Road trips can be almost as fun as your final destination; if you are prepared. Preparation is key in almost all things enjoyable, and it’s super important for a road trip. Making sure your vehicle is road-ready, and you have all the essentials packed and ready to go and make the trip memorable!

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Start with storage – if you have a van or a big SUV, you probably have plenty of room. If you don’t, or you are traveling with more than 2 or 3 people, investing in a cargo box with roof straps is a good idea.

Driving. GPS, sunglasses, road atlas (for when you are in the areas that the GPS doesn’t work) radar detector. I also bring along headphones; I keep one ear in and one out for when I’m driving at night and everyone else is sleeping.

Riding. Travel pillow, blanket (I like to keep it COLD when I am driving, and the kids like to cover up when they are asleep). Comfy ‘traveling’ clothes (hello yoga pants), passenger window shades. Power inverter, USB car charger, bluetooth, tablets, gaming consoles (my son plays a lot on his DSi), books, book light, travel DVD system and DVD’s.

Snacks. I always pack a small cooler; they have the mesh coolers that can fit just about anywhere. Take your water bottles, travel mugs (for when you stop and fill up for coffee!) quick and easy snacks like nuts, pretzels, popcorn, etc. (this will save you a TON of money. Instead of buying something at every rest stop or gas station – trust me on this one).

Hygiene. OK I am totally weird about making sure I am always fresh and clean; like people think I’m strange. But feeling ‘human’ is important to me when I travel. So bring wet wipes, make sure your toothbrush/toothpaste, deodorant, body sprays, and an extra set of clothes are handy (and not up in your cargo box! Always have an ‘emergency bag’ of everything you might need). If you wear contacts, bring re-wetting drops, an extra case along with saline solutions and your glasses. I have a bag ready for me to take a shower if I want to at a rest stop – it’s unbelievable how much better you will feel after riding or driving in a car all night!

Road Trip Stops. You never know what you might come across -bring a camera (or have your phone ready), binoculars, sunscreen, cash, comfortable shoes (I travel in flip flops – even in the winter. Easy to get off and on), raincoats or ponchos, etc. Always be ready for a spontaneous adventure (sometimes those are the best!)

Just in Case. Be sure you have stuff readily available in case of an emergency; first aid kit, any medications anyone might need (be sure to pack motrin and tylenol as well – and allergy meds if you have any allergy problems), jumper cables, portable jump start (my best purchase ever), flares, duct tape, tire gauge, spare change, water jug, emergency cash or credit card.

Pre-Trip Check-Up. Make sure your vehicle is road-ready! Get an oil change, have your tires checked and rotated, top off all the fluids, check your heat/AC to make sure it’s working properly.

This post is sponsored in part by Junction Auto Sales.

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This Dummies Guide to Doing Your Own Oil Change

If you are like me, you consider yourself a pretty smart person. You can balance a checkbook, figure out the tip on your bill at the restaurant, even figure out some of those really confusing insurance documents that come in the mail by the shoebox full.

But when it comes to anything hands on – reading instructions and figuring things out – well, I have a hard time putting a shoe shelf together (true story).

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Most of the time I pay to get work done on my vehicle – sometimes it’s not always cheaper to do it yourself unless you have the tools and parts already at your disposal. So 90% of the time I take my car to get the oil changed; they top off the fluids, and heck, sometimes they even vacuum it out for me (BONUS!) But there are some occasions when I can’t drop my vehicle off for an entire day and wait for a garage full of mechanics to get to mine when they find the time. Time is money right?

So I decided I would teach myself to change my own oil – and let me tell you I read like a million different instructional blogs, watched a few YouTube videos – and it took all of those to get me to a point where it all clicked. So I figured I’d put all those tips together to make one understandable even-for-dummies instructional.

 

Now to get started you want to wear old clothes, put on some tactical knee pads, and have a yard/driveway/garage where you can make a mess, and have a container to properly dispose of  the used oil (these can be dropped off at select locations only – don’t throw them in the trash!) and your new oil (your car’s manual should tell you what kind to get). Now you are ready to get started!

Start your  car and let it run for about 2 minutes – not too long that everything gets hot and you could burn yourself, but enough to get the oil flowing.

 

FIND THE DRAIN PLUG

The drain plug is located under the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. Usually you will have to crawl under your car to reach it (or jack it up. If you are not experienced with jacking up a car, I wouldn’t recommend doing it without assistance).

 

DRAIN THE OIL

Make sure that you’re throw-away container is positioned under the drain plug; use a paper towel (or even gloves) to protect your hands and remove the drain plug. I recommend doing it slowly and then careful get your hand out of the way. The oil will still be warm – and it’s super messy – so get outta’ the way!

 

REMOVE THE OIL FILTER

After the oil is drained, remove the cap from the oil ‘filler’ hole at the top (you know, under your hood) and unscrew the oil filter. You have to use a wrench, so be careful!

The filter will have oil in it, so be careful not to make a mess; empty the oil from the filter into your old oil container.

 

PUT THE OIL PAN BACK ON
I cannot tell you how many times this has happened to people I know! It’s easy to forget so be sure to put it back on and make sure the bolt is back on tight!

 

PUT A NEW FILTER IN

Seriously just remove the old – put in the new. While doing this, make sure any remnants of the old filter are gone (sometimes you have to pick out pieces) and lightly oil the gasket on top of the new filter with some of your new oil. (this keeps it from sticking in the future).

 

ADD OIL
Be sure to use a funnel! Don’t make a mess with the oil – your car will STINK and it will look like it’s on fire from all the oil burning off the other parts of your car! Put a quart in at a time – be sure to follow your cars manual instructing you how many quarts to use. BUT THE CAP BACK ON! (Another rookie mistake – yes, I know from experience).

 

START YOUR ENGINES

Let the engine run for about a minute and check for any leaks under the vehicle, or where you replaced the filter.

 

WAIT

Shut off the engine and let it sit about 15 minutes.Remove the oil dipstick, wipe it clean, and dip it back in again. Pull it out and check the levels..
IF its not near the full line, add oil a bit at a time, checking the stick after each addition, until it reaches full.

 

TAKE A DRIVE

Drive around the block a few times, and then come back and let the car sit another 10 to 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick again to make sure it’s still at FULL – if so – you’re done! YOU DID IT!!!!

 

This post is sponsored in part by Springfield Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram.

 

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Tips on Inspecting a Used Car

Everyone has their own concerns when buying a used car. To reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone car, doing your homework to identify models with a good reliability record before you shop. You can check Consumer Reports to get specific vehicle reports on a vehicle you may be interested in – to learn about up to 17 trouble areas – so you can pay special attention to those components during inspection.

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Read the Sticker. The FTC requires dealers to post a Buyers Guide on every used vehicle for sale; it includes info where the vehicle is being sold ‘as is’ or with a warranty, along with any percentage of repair cost the dealer will pay. This may help you make a decision on a particular car – maybe pushing you in the direction of one car vs another since it comes with a warranty, etc.

 

What to Inspect

Anytime you are purchasing a vehicle always look over the vehicle thoroughly. If possible have your trusted mechanic do a quick inspection as well. We always call ahead to our mechanic to make sure that they are available around the time we will be test driving – that way we can swing by and they are expecting us! Mechanics can test out things we might not know much about – engine, battery, radiator, fluids, hoses and belts, muffler, etc. Unless you know quite a bit about the insides of how a vehicle is supposed to look/work – take it to your mechanic! If you don’t have one, ask a friend. Someone knows someone who can hlep!

 

Exterior. Check each and every body panel, and the roof and look for scratches, dents and rust. Examine the fenders and doors, looking for misaligned panels or any type of gaps. Scratches can easily be fixed – rust, not so much. Be sure to check wheel wells and rocker panels beneath the doors, and bring a flashlight so you can inspect in those darker, harder to reach places.
Check the doors, hood and trunk to make sure that they open without a problem – wiggle them a bit, make sure the hinges aren’t loose. Check the rubber seal,etc.
Look over vehicle glass to make sure there are no large cracks – if so, this should be brought up during price negotiations. Be sure that when you negotiate and if they offer to fix it, be sure that it’s through a legit glass company.
Make sure the lights work, that they aren’t cracked or fogged with moisture.

You can tell a lot by the tires – any vehicle with less than 20k miles should probably have the original tires. If it’s a lower mileage car with newer tires, double check all the paperwork to make sure the previous owner didn’t roll back the odometer or mess with anything. Check the tread – if it’s bad, negotiate new tires into the deal or get your bottom line lower.

Interior.
You spend a lot of time inside your car – so make sure you take time to inspect everything. Even some of the smallest imperfections can get irritating. For example, when I bought my vehicle I didn’t pay attention to the handle of the door. For the first month I scraped/cut myself on the handle because the silver metal paint was peeling off, and on occasion it would scrap just right and make my finger bleed. Something small, but I could of had them fix it if I would of paid closer attention.
Check upholstery to make sure it’s not ripped or overly worn. Try the seat adjustments to make sure everything works properly, and it’s a comfortable fit.
Check all the ‘lights’ and controls. Try every button and lever. Turn the ignition switch on (without starting the engine) and you should see the warning lights pop on (if not, you need to talk to your mechanic).
Turn the heat on full blast – then the AC. See how fast and well it blows out. If there is any issue, make sure that the dealership takes care of it before you sign anything.
Check for wet spots on carpet (even under the floor mats) Take a sniff for other odors like mold or smoke – those aren’t soo easy to get rid of, and if it bothers you you might want to find another car.
Check the speakers, and radio or CD player. Make sure everything works. Bring a CD to try out to make sure – test the AC adaptor if you plan to use another device like your phone or an iPod.
Look up! Check out the interior for stains or sags. If you have a sunroof or moonroof, make sure it opens and closes properly and seals well. I recommend pouring a bottle of water over the top and check for leaks inside.

 

This post was sponsored in part by Hillview Motors.

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Poison Ivy Paste with Essential Oils

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When I was a kid I didn’t think I would ever be able to get poison ivy – I had picked up poison ivy sticks (never got it) grabbed the leaves (never got it). . but fast forward a few years (OK a lot of years) and I was mowing my grass pushing my body into some bushes to make sure I got it all – well, lets just say that luck wore off. I had it from my face to my feet. I wouldn’t wish the itch and embarrassment of poison ivy on anyone!

If you are unlucky enough to be a poison ivy magnet, you have to give this poison ivy paste a try!

Poison Ivy Paste Final 7

Poison Ivy Paste

* This will keep covered in a jar for about 2-3 weeks in the fridge.

Ingredients:

*(remember these ingredients can be used for a lot of different things – and the bottles of oils can last a long time since you are only using a few drops!)

Ingredients_Bottles

Directions:

  • In a small bowl add clay and apple cider vinegar, it will fizz just let stand until mixture is stable.
  • Add Peppermint Lavender and colloidal silver to the clay mix and slowly stir until fully combined.
  • You can use this mix just as it is this way however for more of a creamy consistency organic Aloe Vera cream can be added to further calm the infection.

In Process 4 (2)

Why this works: The Clay mixture pulls the poison ivy oils from the pores thereby drying up the infection very quickly. Adding the apple cider vinegar and colloidal silver prevents infection. The Peppermint oil acts as a pain reliever and the lavender calms and soothes the skin thereby relieving the itch.

*print your labels here
Poison Ivy Paste Labels

 

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Tackling Fleas & Tapeworm with #SentinelSpectrum

This post is sponsored by Virbac® SENTINEL® SPECTRUM® and the BlogPaws® Pet Influencer Network™. I am being compensated to help create awareness about protection against common parasites found in dogs but we only share information we feel is relevant to our readers. More information about SENTINEL SPECTRUM. Virbac is not responsible for the content of this article.

We’ve talked recently about protecting your pets from parasites and fleas, keeping them healthy and happy. This time I wanted to focus on 2 of the most common frustrating issues when dealing with your pets – fleas and tapeworms.

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Relationship Between Fleas and Tapeworms
Fleas play a very important role in the reproduction of tapeworms. The adult form of a tapeworm (the dipylidium caninum) live in the small intestines of dogs and cats . The worm is made up of multiple segments – imagine the little toy worms that we used to play with as kids – with detachable parts that we put together , you know the different colors with interlocks – anyway, one by one the segments, full of eggs, are passed in their poo. While warm the segments are active but when they dry up they break open and the eggs are exposed. Flea larva eat the tapeworms segmented eggs (yuck right?!) The flea larva then develops into a flea (carrying that icky tapeworm segments in it). When a cat or dog eat the flea (usually when they are grooming, or biting at their skin to stop the flea from biting) the egg develops into the tapeworm, and well, the whole horrible cycle starts all over again.

Treatment
To treat your dog for tapeworms, you need a good medication that will kill the tapeworm. Of course you also want to control the flea problem as well, because if they have fleas, then of course they are more likely to get reinfected with the tapeworm (vicious cycle of life!)

SENTINEL® SPECTRUM® gives you protection for your best friend for 6 parasites – all in one chew. Fleas, tapeworm, heartworm, roundworm, hookworm, and whipworm.

Your dog needs year round protection from these pesky parasites – and thats why SENTINEL® SPECTRUM® could be exactly what your dog needs (check with your your veterinarian to see if SENTINEL® SPECTRUM® is right for your dog).

Save money – get your rebate here!

sentinel_spectrum

Afraid you might forget? Sign up to get monthly email/text reminders so you’re pet is always protected!

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Virbac® SENTINEL® SPECTRUM®. The opinions and text are all mine.

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